Lugo's 3rd Beer Fest: Feira da Cervexa Artesá 2016

On a summery Friday in May in Lugo, Galicia, Spain, in a region dominated by the mass produced Estrella Galicia, a tent is erected where more than a dozen breweries from the region as well as the neighbouring province of León set up and showcase nearly 80 artisan beers between them. 

This was Lugo's 3rd craft beer festival, and what with its relative youthfulness as beer festivals go it might seem as if the town of Lugo has been slow on the uptake where organising such an event is concerned compared with the rest of the beer-drinking world. It was obvious on approaching the bustling tent, however, that they've caught up at astonishing speed and there'll be no stopping them now.

The oldest of the breweries among them was founded as long ago as 2008, but the newest this very year. The explosion in craft brewing in this part of the world mirrors exactly what's been going on all over, and for such a modestly sized town as Lugo, it's impressive that five of the breweries alone hail from right here. It's clear that even in this unassuming corner of Green Spain the little man is rising up, and he's getting thirsty for something with flavour.

Even over a period of three days it would have been a tall order to sample all 80 brews; in the two days I went even more so. But by gum I gave it my best shot, and here is what I discovered...

Hipsteria Red Hoppy Juice (6%) – Cata Craft! GypsyBrewery – Ponferrada

The eye-catching branding from these guys caught my eye straight away and was more or less the reason why I dived into their offerings first. I’m pleased to say my unashamedly superficial approach paid off. Juicy piney aromas wafted up from this ruby coloured beaut. Its huge hop profile has the sweet juicy tropical flavours of mango and pine resin, but a blast of bitter citrus tears through leaving a distinct grapefruit aftertaste. This New World inspired brew is punchy but with style. 4/5

APA (5.5%) – Belecker – Léon

This pale ale pours a golden colour with a stunning creamy head. It’s exceptionally smooth on the palate and imparts a clean, gentle floral flavour. This is a sessionable quencher for a summer’s day. 3/5

Atlantic IPA (6%) – Faxilda – Vilaboa

This guy pours amber with juicy pine notes that achieve some balance in an otherwise bitter hop profile. The dry, bitter finish makes for a refreshing brew. 3/5

Castaña Asada (7.1%) – Santo Cristo – Ourense

This dark amber ale brewed with roasted chestnuts offers a whole host of deep, rich malty flavours. Nutty, caramel biscuit malts are accompanied by rum truffles owing to the combination of dark roasted malts and the high ABV. This is a warming treat that any brown ale fan should be happy to get their chops around. 4.5/5

Punch IPA (6%) – Ancora – Ourense

The clue is in the name with this one. With one sip the boxer on the label slides into your mouth and batters your tongue with his grapefruity gloves. Bitter, bitter, bitter citrus flavours with some earthy qualities and a clean finish. 2.5/5

San Diego Imperial Smoked Hot Chili Black Indian (8%) – Cata Craft! Gypsy Brewery – Ponferrada

This brewery seems to like throwing lots of words into its beers but I’d be lying if I said it didn’t pique my curiosity. This gorgeous stout-coloured beer with a cappuccino head delivers a prickle on the tongue, although not excessively, which will please you or not depending on your tastes and expectations. Further into the glass the distinct flavour of real chilis comes to the fore, although the smokiness doesn't quite emerge. If nothing else, it’s a stout with a kick. 2.5/5

Loura (4.2%) – Bubela – Lugo

This tame little guy is clean and refreshing with delicate herbal and floral hints but a tad lacking when it comes to depth. But if their beer doesn’t cut it for you, they also specialise in their own pasta... 2/5

Bitter Pan (8%) – Kel’s – Coruña

With a fragrant citrus hop profile this strong IPA boasts a robust malty caramel base to match. The high ABV imparts a spirity alcoholic backdrop which compromises the quaffability. 2.5/5

Spelt Ale (5%) – Vacaloura – Nigrán

Spelt ale was a first for me. While this cloudy golden brew had some herbal and grassy notes, I noticed a lack of banana flavours you normally get from wheat beers. Then again, should I have expected that from a spelt ale? Either way, it was drinkable and refreshing overall. 2.5/5

Brown Ale (5.5%) – Saramagal – Pontevedra

Caramel biscuit malts are what you mainly get from this, just as you'd hope to from a brown ale, making it nicely sweet on the whole. 2.5/5

Faisca Irish red ale (5.3%) – Faxilda – Vilaboa

And lastly but not leastly, although note-taking was becoming something of a challenge by this point, my main observation seemed to be that it was very drinkable with a predominantly malty but balanced flavour. Not the most detailed of reviews, but I seemed to find it more pertinent to note that although the brewery is based in Vilaboa in Galicia, the brewer is Basque. How about that? 3/5

It was refreshing to see that while most of the breweries were from Galicia, the influences came from far and wide with inspiration from the US, Ireland and Scotland to name a few places. What remained strictly Galician, however, was the second most important thing at any beer festival: the food.

There was an impressive set-up in the grub department, with a selection that I'm willing to bet you wouldn't expect to see wherever you're reading from. Local pastries and empanadas (Galician pies), churrasco (barbecued ribs), lacón ham and Padrón peppers and - wait for it - octopus were all on offer. That's right, there wasn't a hamburger in sight.

The culinary delights on offer were expertly prepared in the traditional ways and served up in portions big enough for two. That's not because the locals are particularly greedy, but for the opposite reason that it'd be unusual to order a dish and not share it.



Hand-held food being something of an unseemly concept for Galicians (with allowances being made for churros and chips) the dining experience was very much a sit-down affair. A separate tent provided long tables for taking some time out from the beery madness, and lining your stomach for the next round.

I personally opted for the ribs, which went down very nicely with a Punch IPA. And yes, I shared them.

My Lugo journey will be over long before their beer fest turns four, but if I have any reason to return for a long weekend then I have a feeling that that'll be it. Watch this space! \~/